Pubs vary a lot from place to place. But wherever you are - whatever local formula you stumble upon - the crux of the thing remains the same:
Lots of good, fresh beer on tap and a short, unpretentious menu of simple, hearty fare. The bulk of it is intended for the pleasure of a loyal
crowd of locals.
A good pub is a beautiful thing, but in Toronto they are hard to come by. Too many of them are just another in a worthless chain peddling some sort
of awkward hybrid of mock-English pub and American roadhouse family restaurant - two concepts that combine for a charm factor equal to the sum of
their dreary parts.
No, it is best to stick to the places that work from the traditional formula.
"Well, that looks better than it did last week," says the fellow one table over at McVeigh's irish Pub (124 Church St), sizing up my date's fish and
chips. "Could've bounced a bowling ball off that lot!"
I like McVeigh's. It's convivial. The regulars here actually start up conversations with strangers, instead of just ignoring each other in favour of those
ridiculous anti-social closed-circuit television trivia games so popular at places like The Spotted Dick (81 Bloor St. E.). But te food at McVeigh's can fairly
be described as excessively authentic. It is not good. In a pinch, though, I'm perfectly happy with their Irish beef stew with Guinness. But nothing else.
"Let me tell you about our specials today," volunteers the extremely friendly barkeep at The Brogue Inn, way out in Port Credit at Lakeshore Road and Highway 10, the
geographical boundary of this particular quest. "We've got a tuna melt, on whole wheat, and..."
A tuna melt? On whole wheat? This is pub food? This is what happens at the end of the pub spectrum opposite to McVeigh's: American family restaurant fare, the menu
running the gamut from "Cheesy bruschetta" to the inevitable Caesar salad, with a handful of pub-like items tacked on as an afterthought. I went for the fish and chips.
The fish wasn't too bad but the other half of the equation - the chips - were an affront. Surely the only thing worse than those old, fat pale frozen fries are these
weird new-style ones with the crispy-battered exterior grafted over their slippery filling. What does it take to peel and slice a real potato? How much can it cost?
Doesn't anyone care?
Happily, one publican does. His name is John Maxwell, and he owns or has a stake in three separate places in Toronto - three pubs I really like, although each is completely
different in style and nature.
Allen's (143 Danforth Ave.) is meant as a New York bar, like the unpretentious and hospitable places one finds in the East Village and its environs.
Dora Keogh Irish Pub (141 Danforth Ave.) next door is completely Irish. And the downtown operation, P.J. O'Brien's (39 Colborne St.), is deeply London, plucked
straight from the City, or maybe Knightsbridge. Each succeeds.
Mr. Maxwell is a New Yorker of Irish descent. The first place he opened here was a Joe Allen's on John Street, which was modeled on the famous New York saloon on 46th Street and also the London
branch, in Covent Garden, where Mr. Maxwell worked in the 1970's. Allen's on the Danforth was originally intended to have a Joe in the name.
Stroll in and you find that characteristically New York saloon layout: Bar up front on the right, dining room at the back. The bar is handsome wood, the tables at the back simply dressed with blue and white gingham clothes.
The floor is dark wood. The walls are decorated with a nice combination of old theatre posters, Joe Allen-style, as well as a host of memorablia from Mr. Maxwell's other passion - the Jaguar motorcar company.
The menu at Allen's features the very best hamburgers in town. You can start with an open-faced sandwich of good smoked salmon laid over pumpernickel and red onions, liberally sprinkled with plump capers. The chicken wings, pleasantly
crispy and well dressed with a spicy brown sauce thick with Worcestershire, are the most pleasing I have come across in any pub in town. The chopped steak - 10 ounces of minced sirloin - lying under a thick gravy, mashed potatoes on the side,
is delicious, and very likely the town's best hangover cure. The fish and chips - halibut on one side of the plate, real potato on the other - are as good as one will come across here.
Next door, Dora Keogh is one of the most charming pubs in town. Unlike Allen's, which Mr. Maxwell owns outright, this one is part of his Irish Pub group, whose partners include the women who lends it her name, as well as Patrick J. O'Brien and Daithi Connaughton, who
as yet is without an eponymouse watering hole.
Dora Keogh is a wide open space, warmly lined with wood, a long bar running half the length of the room on its left. There are booths here and there, and a host of implausibly comfortable knee-high copper-covered tables. If you settle in here, remember that the service is authentically English pub, which is
to say that you must serve yourself at the bar.
Head for the back of the room past the fireplace and you will find a kitchen plucked from some rural Irish cottage circu-1952, sans earthen floor. An old radio sits atop the 50's fridge. The stove dates from the same era. So too the rest of the fixtures. This is yer ma's kitchen.
Book ahead and you and a group of friends can gather here around the rustic wooden table and, for jus $25 a head, tuck into a meal of great rustic fare such as
roast pork with craklin', leg of lamb with rosemary and garlic, a whole roast turkey or baked double-smoked Belfast ham. Any main comes with your choice oftwo potatoes and two vegetables. This seems to me to be a great idea.
P.J. O'Brien's, tucked in behind the King Edward hotel, is the opposite sort of thing, an upscale financial-district pub for Irishmen who, unlike those at Dora Keogh, might have left their accents behind on their path to success. You will find the entrance on a street corner, as it should be with city pubs.
The floors are wood, the walls, painted a handsome burgundy, the bar topped with copper. The place has warmth.
Last time I passed by with a few friends we sat in a private booth, ordered a round of pints and quietly declared the Christmas season open. The special of the day was chicken pot pie, which was good, the morsels of chicken within tender and flavoursome but floating in a sauce a little overburdened with fresh
taragon. The pastry overtop was pleasantly flaky.
I had the steak and kidney pie, which is a rarity here, typically displaced by steak and mushroom presumably because people find offal icky. It was very good. Not superb, not a statement, just a good lunch meal in a handsome pub.
Someone else had a burger which we found to be top-notch, meaty and robust, but like its accompanying fries one small notch below those at Allen's.
P.J. O'Brien's has a bar menu that perfectly sums up the pleasantly-posh essense of the place. Where other pubs offer pizza-bits and orange coloured chicken wings and mucky nachos, here you can have an order of the house chips with garlic mayonnaise, battered shrimp with tomato horseradish sauce, or, best of all, broiled lamb loin chop
available with mint and yogurt at $4.95 a piece. What a way to punctuate the end of the day.
"A Pint of Harp and a lamb chop please."
Now why didn't anyone here think of that before?